1975 Kawasaki 500 H1F
Sale price: $14250 ≈ €12606 ≈ £10682 ≈ ₿0.261 btc
Last update: Item location: Poughkeepsie, New York, US
Sale type: Fixed price listing
|Color:||Candy Sky Blue|
Well It's time to move on to my next project so Up for auction is my very well cared for not abused adult owned (never left out to be soaked & sun baked)1975 Kawasaki 500 H1F Triple in excellent cond with 13,887 original miles with new paint, graphics,total top to bottom engine rebuild & generally going thru most of the bike in the process too.
I had to do a complete engine rebuild because soon after buying,registering & riding this bike approx 100-125 miles the original dried out shrunken 46yr old crank seals failed making it run poorly.
Since this bike was in such good cond to begin with I spent a lot of money to ensure it was fixed right & brought up to a high standard using hard to locate new kawi nos parts & labor that went into it making it a true turn key great looking bike vs the majority of kawi triples being sold here on ebay these days that at best only have a few of the things i have replaced & or have done to the triples they are selling on Ebay thats an issue if they still have the original 45-50yr old dried out shrunken cranks seals destined to fail sooner then later like happened to me.
I will let the photos show the excellent cond this bike is truely in being a museum or collector quality bike I hope will be bought for either of those 2 uses & not just ridden often beat to death in a few yrs.
I have ridden it approx 200 miles since total rebuild of the motor to ensure there are no leaks or issues with trans motor etc which all checked out ok post 200 miles of the 1st 500 mile breaking period at max of 4K rpm per Kawasaki breakin procedure.
Btw,Bike recently sat for 3wks & started right up with 2 kicks.
The new owner will have to complete the remaining 300 miles of the 1st 500 mile breaking at max of 4K rpm & then also complete the 2nd/last part of the Kawasaki rec breaking procedure of an additional 500 miles at max of 6k rpm.
Since I could not take the motor much past 4K rpm (only partial throttle & load) in the 1st few hundred miles I rode it post rebuild the new owner may find when they open it up to full/WOT that it may require a bit more carb tweaking & or jetting changes for best throttle response & performance/power that i cant do not do not being fully broken in yet so keep that in mind.
Ok, I will list below everything I did to the bike for the motor Rbld & to bring it up to an overall excellent cond lvl.
Motor:• Vapor blasted (Arnold's Design)motor cases,cyls & heads.•Crankshaft Completely rebuilt by Charlie's Smith @ Triple Cranks inc new upgraded main bearings,new crank seals,new big & small end needle bearings,new rods,new c-clip & oring seal too!• Fresh bore to 61mm inc chamfering ports & setting ring gaps) using Kawi NOS 61mm pistons & rings.• Also installed new wrist pins,Kawi nos wrist pin bearings & clips too.• Installed 3 nos Kawi crankcase check valves. • Installed all new gaskets,seals & Three Bond case sealer where appropriate/as required.
Carbs:• Vapor blasted carbs• Installed new stock type 35 pilot & 95 main jets(92.5 is oem main jet but went to 95 mains due to the better flowing new cleanable k&n filter i installed in the stock airbox)• installed new needles & seats, gaskets seals.• Checked floats to ensure not leaking taking on fuel which tested ok/good & installed floats set to Kawi float lvl spec along with needles & new float gaskets. • Intake manifolds between carbs & heads were vapor blasted & resurfaced flat to ensure a leakproof seal to heads.• installed carbs on motor & static syc'd them.
Note,this bike still retains it's plastic intake silencer too.
Throttle & Cables:* Throttle & oil pump cables were all in good cond so i cleaned,lubed/oil them for reuse.
Transmission:• sent engine cases & transmission to Mark @ R&D Motorsports to have him go thru the trans to ensure there were no issues where he found post magneflux a couple gears that had hairline cracks which I replaced with nos Kawi gears that he also magnefluxed showing ok prior to install.• All 3 shift forks showed some wear & useable but I replaced all 3 anyway with new nos Kawi shift forks.• the trans was then backcut which removes the load off the shift forks while at the same time making it shift smoother/easier too. • A bearing on the main clutch shaft was a bit sloppy/noisey so I replaced it with the proper Kawi nos bearing.• The complete trans was then installed & properly shimmed to the engine case by mark. • Drive sprokets & o-ring chain were cleaned & found to be in very good cond with no worn or bent/angled teeth on the sprokets & chain was tight with no notable issues with any o-rings therefore not requiring replacement,I then lubed the chain & sprokets along with tightening chain to proper spec.• I drained the trans oil post 1st 100miles to flush trans & crankcase. I refilled with the same Spectro 10w-30 (Kawi rec) transmission oil.
Clutch:• New Ebc Fiber discs & steel space plates.• New Kawi nos clutch springs.• New upgraded ball bearing clutch pusher for easier clutch operation.• Disassembled the original ball bearing clutch release mechanism to clean,regrease,oil & reassembled to insure smooth clutch operation.* Clutch cable was in good cond so i cleaned,Lubed/oiled it for reuse.
Oil Injection system:• Cleaned oil injector supply tank & installed A new filter screen connector to bottom of the tank.• Installed a new oil supply line from oil tank to oil pump including a shutoff valve in oil supply line to avoid hydro locking the motor should any of the check valves in the 3 oil supply lines to the motor stick open allowing oil to drain from oil supply tank thru oil pump into the motor damaging the motor should it be started in that condition. • Disassembled,cleaned & removed the old check valves in the 3 oil supply lines to the motor & installed new upgraded check valve balls & springs in the oil feed lines along with testing to ensure they were flowing properly with no leaks.• Installed new sealing washers on all three oil line junctions to main engine block. • Oil pump looked to be in good cond with no leaks which worked well before I had to disassemble motor due to bad crank seals. Oil pump was tested & ok,was reinstalled & adjusted.• I installed special rubber coated sealing washers (strato-seal?) at oil line to oil pump banjo bolt junctions to ensure no leaks.• Oil injection tank was refilled wit Belray SI2 semi blend inj oil for better ring breakin vs using full syn Bel-Ray SI7 full syn inj oil that I would not rec using till the Kawi rec 1,000mile breakin period was completed.• I bled oil inj system at oil pump in prep for 1st startup post rebuild,
Exhaust:• installed nos chrome ex pipe flanges to Mount /hold head pipes to cyls.• Installed new studs,nuts & washers to Mount ex pipes to heads.• cleaned the carbon & oil off the original baffles still in good cond.• The original Mufflers/ex pipes were in good cond structurally but the chrome was cloudy/poor in in spots so I had all 3,mufflers/pipes rechromed.• Reinstalled baffles into the ex pipes & reinstalled on them on the bike with new head pipe gaskets.
Brakes:• Rebuilt & restored front caliper & reinstalled on bike, front rotor looked to be in good cond.• installed new upper & lower rubber nos Kawi brake lines to front brakes along with the short bent steel nos Kawi brake line all for the front caliper.• I installed a new repop original looking master cyl I got from Z1parts. Original master cyl can go with the bike if you want it.. Installed new copper/steel sealing washers on brake lines where applicable. • I flushed all the new front brake system with fresh brake fluid & bled, checked good for no leaks & works well.• Installed new nos Kawi brake shoes in rear along with new rubber cushions in rear sproket/drum too,• Rear wheel bearings were in good cond & tight so I reused them.
Wheels/tires:• Installed new front & rear tires ( Conti's) inc new tubes ,rim strips & balance.• The bike shop that changed tires for me said the wheels,spokes and bearings in both wheels were tight & in good cond with both rims/wheels running true & straight too!• The wheels are original to the bike & the chrome is in good original cond too.
Battery:• Installed a new SLA/sealed lead acid non spillable/non leaking upgraded battery of proper size/spec for the bike.
Fuel system:• Vapor blasted & rebuilt carbs as stated above.• Installed new Pingel fuel petcock in place of the unreliable vacuum petcock that can leak fuel into motor causing hydro lock ruining the motor. I still have the original vacuum operated petcock that can go with bike if you ask.• Installed new fuel lines & clamps inc inline fuel filters too! Btw,the new pingel fuel petcock has a very fine mesh filter screen on it too.
Electrics:All electrical items like headlight,tail light,brake light,signals,neutral light, instrument lights,horn etc all work properly too
The Chrome:• The ex pipes were in good cond structurally with no holes or large areas of rust & no large dents but cosmetically the chrome was cloudy/poor in some areas so I had them rechromed (Mara Plating NJ)• I also had the chain guard & kick starter rechromed for the same reason. (Paul's Chrome Plating PA) • The Chrome on grad bar is great.• The chrome on the front fender looks good with good shine lvl but in good light at certain grazing angle you can see a few light scratches & 2 small dings that can be seen in the pick of front wheel turned to the left. But again,overall at a quick walk by glance the front fender looks good,it's just not perfect so again look at the pic of wheel turned to the left to see the 2 small dings.
Paint• As I stated above the motorcycle was repainted by prior owner at his body shop it's original Candy Sky Blue using stock type graphics I believe from Rick Brett but not 100% sure on that.
Overall the paint & graphics look great but there is a small area on rear tail section that has a few very small minor marks/minute chips? you don't easily see unless your in good light at a certain angle which I tried to duplicate/catch for you with a top down pick.
But until you know where those few marks are you don't see them simply walking by & or around the bike taking a trained eye to catch it which you can see in the top down pic esp if you enlarge it.
Instruments/gauges/controls/rubber foot pegs etc:• Since this bike never spent long periods of time outside in the sun & elements the paint & lettering on the gauges & controls is in way better then avg cond looking pretty crisp nice & black for 46yrs old as can be seen in the pics.
* This bike retains it's original mirrors that are still in good cond too.
Frame:• Frame is original to the bike & overall the paint shines well as can be seen in the pics.Is the frame perfect like a freshly painted,no. But for its age & originality it presents very well as seen in pics but does have some spots that have been lightly touched up over the yrs but overall It looks good as can be seen in the pics.
Front Fork:* Prior owner told me the fork oil was changed using oe spec oil.
* The forks responded normally to bumps feeling good (for a kawi H1) when i rode the bike & the seals didn't leak any oil either.
Rear Shocks:* The original rear shocks to the bike are in very good cond visually but being 46yrs old have little to no dampeningleft making them unsafe requiring replacement.
Fortunately they mfg exact repop copies of the orginal kawi shocks which i bought & installed which seem to work well.
Seat;* Seat,the side trim & seat pan we're all in good original cond to look at but the foam was as hard as a rock to sit on and one seam in the seat cover was split but not seen till you actually sat on the seat to open up the split,
So I bought a good repop copy of the original seat cover & foam and then had a guy I know at a local classic car restoration shop redo/restore the seat which came out great.
* Seat also retains the original plastic document tray in good cond including the original owners manual & warranty booklet.
* This bike also retains the proper tools in the tool kit in with new nos kawasaki tool pouch to replace the original plastic/nylon pouch that dried & cracked to pieces due to age.
* The original spare spark plug holder is present & in good cond too.
* The same ign key opens the seat lock too & i have proper kawi spare keys that go with the bike.
As for this bikes current value:I have found over years dealing with and watching classic bike & muscle car values that Hagerty's valuation tool is very accurate when it comes to classic bike & car values.
Tha'ts because Hagerty uses actual verified current sales data from vehicles that sold from private ads,dealers & auctions giving very realistic accurate valuations based solely on current sales.
So with that said I included a pic of Hagerty's current valuation of my bike which shows a #2 cond lvl (which this bike is & then some) excellent value as $11,500 for this bike & $13,500 for a #1 concours cond lvl trailer queen thats never ridden or taken out of storage.
Due to this bikes cond (as seen in pics) & all that's been done to it using many expensive hard to locate oem nos Kawi parts & expensive rechrome of mult parts ,trans work & complete top to bottom motor Rbld too this bikes cond is truly a 2+ being between a #2 & #1 valuation putting it at a solid $12,500 valuation.
But with that said I set the reserve below both the 2+ $12,500 & 2 $11,500 valuations to hopefully help move it onto a new owner to make room & help fund my next project.
I recently saw the same exact yr & color Kawi H1F as mine up for auction here in ebay that was in very good cond to look at but with not near as much money invested in it for new parts & complete engine trans clutch rbld still retaining it's original 46yr old crank seals that could go bad at any time sell here on eBay for $11k+
I tried to give you the best honest description of this bike as I could inc all I have done to it using mostly very pricey nos/oem Kawi parts where avail.
I hope because of this bikes great cond it's bought by a museum or for someone's personal collection where it will only be ridden once in a while for fun to preserve it as the great example of muscle bikes of the past that it truly is.
Ok,onto the not so fun stuff!
* There is no warranty on this 46yr old bike,
* A $500 deposit is due at end of the auction to max of 24hrs using Paypal ,bank certified check or cash.
* Balance of payment is due 7 days post auction end via cash or a bank certified check which must clear in my bank account before the motorcycle title is signed over to the new owner & before the motorcycle leaves my possession.
* Shipping is the buyer's responsibility & I will do my best to be avail to assist the shipper when they arrive to pick up the motorcycle.
* Note: I will store the bike up to 1 month/4wks max for free till auction winners shipper picks it up. If the auction winners shipper doesn't pick up the motorcycle in the 4wk free storage period they will be charged a $10 daily storage fee till it's picked up.
BTW,I won't respond to questions asking to end the auction early or disclose the reserve either (though above i gave a rough hint of what reserve is) so please don't ask to do so.
Please Contact me thru this auction if you have any questions.
Good luck bidding!
Wanted to add a few things:
* I Have a clear title in hand.
* I Have receipts to show new parts bought & work done like for example crank rbld,trans work,new pistons & rings,new clutch parts,etc.
*Though the original hand grips on the bike are in usable ok cond they are not perfect as seen in pics so I Have a new set of reproduction hand grips i will include with the bike.
One more thing,if you have a good eye in the pic of the right rear of the bike & tire you might have noticed before i took the pics i forgot to remove a black cable tie wrap thats positioned on muffler bracket & rear footpeg mount that i put there to temp hold the lower right hand ex pipe/muffler in position while i was installing the 2 bolts into the lower muffler bracket & have since removed it.